Nov 17, 20239 min read

A Walk in the Winter Woods: Craigendarroch Lodges, Ballater, Royal Deeside, Scotland

Spiritual Reflections at Christmas

Spending time in the Highlands of Scotland is one of my favorite ways to experience the blessing of Christmas. The Craigendarroch Lodges, Hilton Grand Vacation Club, is nestled in the Cairngorms National Park, not far from the town center of Ballater, Scotland, and less than seven miles in the other direction from Braema, where the lovely Balmoral Castle is located. On this trip, I flew from the Orlando, Florida airport (MSO) to Aberdeen, Scotland (ABZ/EGPD). Once I arrived in Aberdeen, I picked up a rental car at the airport and drove about one-hour east on the A-93 towards Ballater. I have many beautiful memories of this trip, but one stands out among the rest. Prior to leaving the United States, I prayed that it would not only snow, but that the ground would be covered with a white blanket by the time I arrived in Aberdeen, Scotland. Many of my friends and trip advisors had told me there wouldn't be enough snow for good skiing until January. So, at that point I wasn't sure if I would get my Christmas wish. However, having grown up in the U. S. just two hours from the Canadian border, I was truly missing the beautiful snow-covered landscapes I had often seen at Christmas time. Much to my surprise, I received my Christmas wish, and not only was it snowing by the time we landed in Aberdeen, but just as I had prayed, the ground was covered with three inches of newly fallen snowflakes! I will admit that getting my Christmas wish made it even more challenging to learn how to drive on the left side of the road, but it was so worth the extra effort. I stopped once to get gas and truly felt the spirit of kindness, giving, and Christmas from the people I met. I was moved by an older gentleman who got out of his truck and immediately walked to my car and wiped the snow and ice off of my windshield with his bare hands just because he saw me struggling to use the snow scrapper. Afterward, he quickly waved goodbye, got back into his truck and drove away, and I wondered if I would ever see him again. When I paid for my gas, the young man working the cash register ask me where I was from. He then told me that this particular convenience store-gas station had been owned by in his family for at least two generations and he would not want to live anywhere else in the world. It didn't take me long to understood how I could grow to feel the same sentiment.

Arriving at Craigendarroch Lodges, Hilton Grand Vacation Club

By the time I reached the Craigendarroch Lodges, I was thrilled that I had managed to successfully make the one-hour trip while driving on the left side of the road along the A93 in spite of the snow-covered roads. This was my first time driving in the United Kingdom, and for those of you who have not yet traveled to this nation, it is important to know that people drive on the left side of the road, not the right, like in the U. S. and continental Europe. The transition to the left side of the road wound up being not too difficult. I was warned prior to making this trip, however, that roundabouts or "traffic circles" as they are called in the U.K., are very common, and, indeed, these traffic circles are probably the most challenging aspect of trying to learn to drive on the left side of the road. I was in the car for about a half-hour having driven through at least four traffic circles before I began to feel a bit calmer and more confident that I could make it the rest of the way to my final destination.

Continued Spiritual Reflections

For many, Christmas is a time of year that brings increased opportunity to reflect on the goodness of God, especially for Christians who celebrate this holiday as a religious or faith-based, festive, annual event. Once I reached the Craigendarroch Lodges, I clearly remember taking a moment to pause, while still in my car, to thank God for this wonderful travel experience. I also felt very thankful to know His Son Jesus, and to be able to celebrate His birth at this special time of the year, a birthday that is often depicted as occurring on a cold winter night in Bethlehem. Although it rarely snows in Bethlehem, it is possible that Jesus may have been born on a snowy winter night in a manger within Bethlehem's Judean Mountains. I had been trying to schedule this trip for over two years, but something had always delayed my coming. Nevertheless, I was finally able to visit Scotland and experience a very special holiday vacation in a place, nestled within the Cairngorms National Park, that looked like a magical winter wonderland. This moment was a special God wink, and I thank Him even to this day for having answered my prayer concerning the snow.

After sunset, I took an enchanted walk through the beautiful winter woods of Craigendarroch Lodges while drinking a delicious cup of hot cocoa, which you can see in the main vlog post. The stunning Christmas tree and enchanting Christmas lights looming over Craigendarroch made me think of the beautiful French Christmas carol Angels We Have Heard on High that was made popular in English speaking nations through the English text written in 1862 by James Chadwick, a Roman Catholic Bishop of Hexam and Newcastle, England. At this point, you can probably guess what I did after the long winter walk. Yep, I had a warm and cozy Christmas movie night snuggled up in a tartan blanket by the fireplace while eating delicious Christmas sugar cookies.

Traveling to Ballater, Scotland

For travelers living in the United States, one of the

best ways to get to Ballater is to fly to Aberdeen, Scotland and drive one hour east on the A93 to Craigendarroch Lodges. On this trip, I took a non-stop flight from Orlando to Amsterdam, Netherlands, where I stayed for one night, and flew out the next morning on a short flight to Aberdeen.This definitely helped to ease the 5 hour jet lag and made for a much shorter drive to Craigendarroch than if I had flown into Edinburgh or Inverness. Since the drive from Aberdeen to Ballater is a one-hour drive, the best mode of travel to get to the Craigendarroch Lodges is a rental car. I've been told that there are also buses that go from Aberdeen to Craigendarroch, but I am not presently familiar with this service. I will say, however, that one benefit to having a rental car, especially when traveling in Europe, is that it gives travelers the opportunity to really see the nations they are visiting. During this trip, I had additional plans to visit other villages, towns, and cities throughout Scotland, some of which could not be easily reached by bus or train. However, if you are planning to stay in one of the larger cities in Scotland, such as Edinburgh or Glasgow, the train system is quite good, and the day-trip bus tours are an excellent way to see some of the wee villages and towns without the hassle of trying to drive on the left side of the road. On this trip, however, I would not have seen some of Scotland's hidden beauty if I had not rented a car.

The History of Craigendarroch and Fun Facts for Travelers

Craigendarroch Lodges incorporates 35 acres of land with 99 lodges and one central building that houses 32 beautiful guest suites, renovated by Hilton in 2013 (Urquhart, 2013). During this trip, I stayed in a beautiful suite with a balcony that had a beautiful view of the mountains. The main building of this property also has a House Spa and is the location of the delightful Kieller Lounge, the on-site restaurant that is a perfect drink and dinning option for guests of all ages vacationing at the Craigendarroch Lodges. The main building dates back to the Victorian Age and has long been a center of entertainment and dinning for important socialites living in or visiting the area of Ballater, Royal Deeside, Scotland. The name of this location, Craigendarroch, is pronounced "crackendahrah" when using English phonetics or [krækəndaraç] when using the International Phonetic Alphabet (IPA). The word Craigendarroch stems from the Gaelic language and means "Hill of the Oaks." This name is an exact depiction of the landscape upon which it is located. Nestled within the Cairngorms National Park, Craigendarroch consists of boundless hills, mountains, and many beautiful hiking, biking, and walking trails, including the famous Craigendarroch Walk where guests can engage in bird watching. Craigendarroch also holds a fascinating and important history, which I believe is worth retelling in this blog. Prior to the time when this land was accessible to resort vacationers and time-share owners, the land was owned by Clan Gordon. Although I am tremendously thankful for my wonderful Scottish heritage and ancient family clan associations, I'll admit feeling just a wee bit envious at this moment that I did not descend from the Chieftains of Clan Gordon! However, as history would have it, in 1886, Charles Gordon, the 11th Marquis of Huntly, sold Craigendarroch to a descendent of the Kieller empire. The Kieller family had great success selling a unique brand of orange marmalade in the late 18th century in Great Britain. Subsequently, in 1891 just five years after Charles Gordon sold Craigendarroch to the Kieller family, the beautiful Victorian home that now serves as the main building of Craigendarroch Lodges was built. The splendor of the woodwork seen throughout the former Kieller home is reminiscent of the golden age of the Victorian Era. It is spectacularly displayed through the intricate woodwork of the primary staircase, which is located in the lobby of the main building, as shown in the photograph below. During World War II, this house also became a significant place of refuge for children from Glasgow, Scotland and officers of the Army, who used the surrounding area as training grounds (Criagendarroch Owners' Club, Rich in History).

I had many wonderful moments talking with several people about the history of Craigendarroch. The Hilton associates were also happy to discuss this topic and provide a summary of the history upon arrival or when requested. While there, I actually remember walking down the long corridor from my suite to the Kieller Lounge one evening, while thinking about the architecture of the building. Without yet having read the history, I suddenly felt as though I was re-walking the steps of the socialites of the Victorian Age, who must have had some exciting celebrations and parties in this exact location. Guests staying at this location really do feel a reminiscence of the spirit of the Victorian era amidst the luxuriously modern vacation suites. I can only imagine the hustle and bustle of Christmas time in this home during the late 19th and early 20th century. If the walls could talk, I would imagine the Kieller House would have many more stories to tell.

On-Site Restaurant, Spa, and Swimming Facilities

Significant to the history of Craigendarroch is the Keiler Lounge, named for the Kieller family as you may have already guessed. This is the main restaurant on location, and guests can order drinks throughout the day or make reservations for lunch or dinner. Options for breakfast are also available at this location, but Keiler restaurant is the place to go if you want to have a more formal dinning experience while surrounded by the natural beauty of Craigendarroch. The staff felt like friends, and the cuisine was wonderful with an array of different dining options every evening. The House Spa is also well-worth mentioning. The spa offers a variety of different services to help guests relax and rejuvenate while enjoying the pool, hot tub, sauna, and gym equipment, which is important for maintaining a healthy well-balanced lifestyle while on vacation.

Delightful Christmas Cod Dinner at Kieller Lounge

Craigendarroch Hill and Trails

When visiting Craigendarroch Lodges make sure to take the Woodland Walk up the Craigendarroch Hill or just freely explore the grounds and surrounding nature trails. There are nature trails wherein hikers can spend time bird watching while peering over some of the most stunning mountain landscapes found within the Cairngorms National Park. Also, there is a visitors center in the town square of Ballater where tourists can get maps of hiking trails found throughout this area. Bike rentals are also available in the warmer months. If you are wondering what to wear in the month of December, a Helly Hansen ski jacket can serve as a constant companion both on and off the slopes. Tourists from the U.S. wanting to find tartan pants and skirts prior to arriving in Scotland may want to explore Talbots women's clothing or Brooks Brothers, both of which generally have a beautiful selection of tartan clothing.

Also, you will definitely want to do a little shopping in Ballater. I found an adorable tartan dog jacket for a very large pup back in the U. S., and he loved it!